Claret Cup Cactus
The answer is: Our local and regional native cold-hardy ‘succulent’ plants!
So-called ‘succulents’ are plants that store water in their above-ground stems and/or foliage, and some in swollen roots. They may be from unrelated plant families, but what they all have in common is that they evolved with similar environmental pressures. Some, like barrel cactus, have forgone leaves altogether, and their fat stems function essentially as water-storage tanks. Their spines and structural characteristics give them sculptural and geometrical features that function as built-in shade mechanisms. And on top of all that amazing adaptation, cacti bloom in brilliant Technicolor, with stunning, silky flowers that are loaded with pollen and draw native bees of many kinds.Our excellent supply and selection of cold-hardy barrel and cholla cacti includes:
Purple Candles Cactus
Cylindropuntia imbricata (Cane Cholla)
Cylindropuntia viridiflora (Santa Fe Cholla)
Echinocereus coccineus (Strawberry Hedgehog)
Echinocereus engelmannii (Engelmann’s Hedgehog)
Echinocereus fendleri (Fendler’s Hedgehog)
Echinocereus x lloydii (Lloyd’s Hedgehog)
Echinocereus reichenbachii (Purple Candles, Lace Cactus)
Echinocereus triglochidiatus (Claret Cup Cactus)
Green Pitaya Cactus
Echinocereus viridiflorus (Green Pitaya)
Escobaria sneedii (Sneed’s Pincushion)
Escobaria vivipara (Beehive Cactus)
Hesperaloe parviflora
In addition, we have lots of hardy Agave (Century Plants), and Hesperaloe parviflora (Red Yucca), and some Yucca glauca (Native Soapweed) and ‘Color Guard’ Yucca, all of which add drama and beauty to western xeriscapes.
Cacti and a number of other ‘succulent’ plants can be transplanted even in a hot, dry time of year. Nearly all of these plants require some water in spring and summer, but need to remain mostly dry in winter. They won’t tolerate more than a few days under snow, and they need soil that drains well and doesn’t hold moisture around the base of the plant. A mulch of squeegee or pea-gravel helps protect them from crown rot, whereas an organic mulch from wood or leaves will promote rot. Nearly all cacti dehydrate and shrivel in winter and may seem to be retreating into the ground. This is completely normal.
A great way to handle prickly cacti is to twist a sheet of newspaper to create a ‘rope’. Wrap the rope around the body of the cactus and use it as a handle when removing the plant from its pot and setting it in the ground. This method leaves one hand free to hold onto the root ball. Suture clamps or kitchen tongs can also work well.
Have the soil prepared and the planting hole ready before removing your plant from its pot.
Carefully remove a cactus plant from its pot, submerging the root mass in a container of water (we recommend that it contain soluble mycorrhizae), and gently move the roots around to remove enough of the potting soil to allow the roots to lengthen. Then gently place the plant in the shade for a few hours to allow the roots to dry and callous where any breakage or bruising may have occurred. Mycorrhizal inoculation helps the newly placed roots to deliver water and nutrients to the plant. Set the plant in its new hole and backfill gradually, making sure there are no significant air pockets (a wooden chopstick can be helpful here), but avoid tearing roots. Mulch with pea gravel or squeegee. Don’t water yet. Provide temporary shade for a few days, then water thoroughly.
For more information, Front Range author Leo Chance has written an excellent book for hardy succulent enthusiasts, Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates. We often stock his book, and current Harlequin’s members always receive 25% off all books!
Aloe vera
We’ve got succulent houseplants/patio plants, too! Our houseplant selection, which keeps expanding, includes succulents like Echeveria and Aloe, and more!
Escobaria vivpara
Echinocereus x lloydii